What 5 year old doesn’t want to be a super hero with a cape? Remember tying a towel around your neck and flying across the living room furniture or jumping high on your bed until your Mom yelled at you? I sure do! But really, bath towels are so yesterday. Enter, the Super Hero Cape! This is for my grandson, Super Calvin.
I followed this tutorial to make it. http://www.momsrising.org/blog/how-to-make-a-superhero-cape-by-lara-from-howdoesshe . However, this power-tooling grammy must customize of course. I ended up making it 13.5″ across the bottom vs. just 11″ and the length was 33.5″ vs. 31.
I found the emblem at Planet Applique and the fabric was a stretch twill with a beautiful drape I got at Hancock Fabrics. I like to do a preliminary stitch out just on a piece of stabilizer to see the size and shape. Note the shape outline of the hoop? It is stitching horizontally vs. vertically. When hooped, the bottom point of the emblem is pointing toward where the hoop attaches to the machine arm – away from the machine body.
Up front, I could not hoop properly until recently. The words torqued, wonky, and AARRRRGH! come to mind when I attempted to hoop. Hair pulling ensued and I’d give up on the project. Then one day, I got an email from Eileen Roche from Designs in Machine Embroidery and it had an advertisement for the PAL. The Perfect Alignment Laser. OMG. Hooping Nirvana. This bad boy provides a perfect 90 degree crosshair laser light on your hooping surface. Slick! I love technology.
You mark the design center of the garment with a crosshair. I’m not going to tell you how to do this because it’s totally subjective depending on the item, but folding in half, and then quarters, and then ironing a cross-crease began the process for this project. Because this is a lightweight fabric, I’m using a heavy duty regular stabilizer (it feels like sturdy interfacing) and Sulky Sticky+ for two layers of stabilizer. I’ve found that when you have lightweight fabrics, using two layers of stabilizer prevents the puckers. Puckers suck. I’m certain there’s a better or more professional/efficient way of doing this but I don’t know what it is.
I use a pin to score the paper and pull off the top center of the sticky backing is up. Then I mark on the stabilizer using the plastic guide thingy that came with my machine to mark the center, sides, top and bottom.
Then I mark a crosshair with a pencil using the dots I made.
Now PAL comes into play. Press the button to turn it on and TA-DAA! A laser crisscross! I align it exactly over the pencil marks. Seriously, how stinking cool is this?!
Then it’s just a matter of aligning the fabric in the hoop so that my ironed creases match up with the laser light.
That center dot is a placement sticker from Designs in Machine Embroidery. Hubs gave me the Perfect Placement Kit for Christmas (because I asked for it and he’s a good Santa) and these markers are included as part of it. You can buy these stickers separately for $20 but honestly, you can get the same result with those sticky dots from the dollar store and mark a 90 degree crosshair in the center.
Now you can’t see it in the image above but I almost TOTALLY screwed this up! I originally aligned the cape with the neckline at the top of the hoop. No, no. Remember on the sample stitch out it was horizontal? Thankfully, I remembered that just in time. Total disaster averted. Whew! I also like to put a few pins to help the fabric stay in place on the sticky.
The next images are the machine doing its thing. In machine applique, the first stitch is called a placement stitch and it outlines the amount of space your fabric needs to cover.
Then place the first fabric over that stitch line and the machine will tack it down over the first stitching line. The only solid yellow I had was a little transparent so I used two layers.
When that’s done, remove the hoop and cut away the excess fabric around the design. I use those curved scissors so I don’t cut the under fabric or stitching line.
Then the machine will do a couple more rounds to tack it down real good and then do a satin stitch around the first fabric. No worries about extra threads. It gets a good haircut at the end.
Change thread colors and repeat with the other fabric. I always cut jump threads (those long crossing threads) whenever I can in between the stitching cycles to prevent them from being anchored down where they don’t belong.
Then I stitched the top of the cape to the back RST (right sides together), turned, pressed, top stitched and added Velcro to the neck closure. 🙂
Yeah, I know, the cape clashes with Dolly’s skirt. lol Here’s the neck closure. All done! Yeah…Who’s the super hero now? 🙂 BANG! POW!! BOOM!!